Federal Ten Ten Heresy stereo "boom box" build

I built a small radio/boom box using the case from and old Federal Ten Ten and various and sundry parts.
I used for the radio one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291692426129?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT


The is an AA-AB32155 from Parts Express (15 watts per channel):


in the last couple of years I Bought 2 of these:


The first one was a VHF low version that only worked in the 30mhz range and was useless to me. The second one was the VHF High version but was dinged up. Luckily this radio can be completely disassembled and I was able to make the VHF high look good as well as get the correct crystal I needed.

The remaining Ten Ten had a broken antenna and while it worked, I have no use for a 30 mhz radio. I gutted it and am now in the process of building speaker mounts. I also was able to fix the antenna using one I had purchased in a lot of 12 from ebay. I will be building a small 12 volt linear power supply (Possibly regulated). The speakers are 2 - 4 or 8 ohm (not marked) speakers that I got from somewhere (maybe computer speakers).

 I found a piece of brass for the panel to mount the speakers to.


Painted the front of the panel.


Cutout the space for the radio, mounted it, the speakers, battery, and the amplifier in the case. Wired up the the external power and the antenna.


I had reversed and painted the speaker cover as the original finish was in bad shape.


The switch is just and on/off switch as the amp does not have a volume control, the volume is controlled by the radio or the remote. I have to open the back to charge the 2200mah LIPO. The amp draws 2 amps at full volume (supposedly) and the radio draws a max of 500ma. At normal listening volume the radio could run for several hours on battery. There is a 2 amp fuse on the battery.

Total time to build about 10 hours.

 Some minor finishing touches (a name tag).


Labels and charging connector for the battery on the back of the radio.

Yes it sounds pretty good and puts out more volume than I would ever need.

Battery Charger build

A while ago I had acquired an old 8 amp selenium rectifier car battery charger.

I took the parts from that and built a new one.

 

But I needed a case. I had discarded the old one.

Recently I found this Brumberger film carrier:

 

 I drew up plans in autocad for the front and back:

 

I laid them out on the front and cut the holes out.

The timer I got is a Haydon Model ADI 1A001C D130302.

The actual timer on the back is a General Time E15450 A2631A1 timer.

The cover plate (which is a sticker) says OFF, EQUALIZE, and NORMAL CHARGE. It appears the only source for these is here: http://www.electronicsurplus.com/haydon-1a001c-d130302-0-16-hours-adj-timer-120v-spst-28a

The unit has 2 black wires for 120vac 60hz and 2 spade connectors for the switch. The switch can handle 250vac 28 amps. The shaft is a standard D type.

I will use a 25 watt 10 ohm POT's so I can vary the input voltage to the transformer. This charger originally had selenium rectifiers so the output voltage is about .5 volts too high. I need to reduce that and do not have any diodes that can handle the 14 amps that this charger can put out before the self resetting circuit breaker kicks in. I want to vary the input voltage anyways to experiment with some of the charging methods I have been reading about. I only need to adjust between 1 and 8 ohms to reduce the input voltage from 125 vac to 115vac if needed. My wall voltage can get rather high sometimes. I do not want to use a variac. I also do not want to over complicate the charger with a DC voltage regulator.

The finished unit:

I used a 50 amp quick disconnect so I can connect the charger to standard clamps and to other types of connections.

There is only one fan on the back, the bottom is just a vent hole.

The timer is set by moving it clockwise or counter clockwise to either "normal charge" or "Equalize". The timer moves clockwise and opens the charging circuit when it hits off. The separate power switch means that the fan will continue to cool the unit once charging has completed.

Funai Magnavox TB110MW9A has green light but does not power on

Funai Magnavox TB110MW9A does not power on.
Symptoms are:
green light flashes and then stops flashing and stays solid green.
nothing but snow on the tv.

My wife's aunt had this problem. I replaced hers with a different model but decided to see if I could fix it. I opened it up to look for swollen capacitors but there were not any.

I tested the voltages in the power supply and the voltages on all the voltage regulators. They all seemed ok. Finally (with some fiddling) the unit came on. I started carefully moving things looking for the problem. The problem ended up being the small vertical card with the large chip on it, If I moved it the unit would lose picture and go to snow.

The fix was to re-solder all the tabs on it.

That was it. It now powers up and shuts down properly.

Starrsoft Win96 Win500 won't load in Windows 7

I have a legit copy of Win96 and Win500 and for reasons I do not know they both stopped working. Searches of the internet showed lots of solutions for citrix and terminal servers (which these files are not on) nor are the files on a network share.

The solution is to go in to System properties, Performance Settings, Data Execution Prevention and to add the win96.exe and win500.exe to the list of exceptions. Below are the error message related to the problem.
---------------------------------------------
Fault bucket 2762246838, type 1
Event Name: APPCRASH
Response: Not available
Cab Id: 0

Problem signature:
P1: Win96.exe
P2: 0.1.7.4
P3: 4eef5003
P4: StackHash_9f4e
P5: 0.0.0.0
P6: 00000000
P7: c0000096
P8: 00bd340e
P9:
P10:

Attached files:
C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Temp\WERD494.tmp.WERInternalMetadata.xml
C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Temp\WERE883.tmp.appcompat.txt
C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Temp\WERE893.tmp.mdmp
C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Temp\WERE8D3.tmp.hdmp

These files may be available here:
C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\WER\ReportQueue\AppCrash_Win96.exe_dd1f1d933413637c13bbca2e1e0dda3edbdb166_cab_53a9e8fe

Analysis symbol:
Rechecking for solution: 0
Report Id: 7fe17232-457c-11e6-b628-00224d88aa25
Report Status: 12
---------------------------------------------
Windows cannot access the file  for one of the following reasons: there is a problem with the network connection, the disk that the file is stored on, or the storage drivers installed on this computer; or the disk is missing. Windows closed the program Win96 Scanner Utility because of this error.

Program: Win96 Scanner Utility
File:

The error value is listed in the Additional Data section.
User Action
1. Open the file again. This situation might be a temporary problem that corrects itself when the program runs again.
2. If the file still cannot be accessed and
    - It is on the network, your network administrator should verify that there is not a problem with the network and that the server can be contacted.
    - It is on a removable disk, for example, a floppy disk or CD-ROM, verify that the disk is fully inserted into the computer.
3. Check and repair the file system by running CHKDSK. To run CHKDSK, click Start, click Run, type CMD, and then click OK. At the command prompt, type CHKDSK /F, and then press ENTER.
4. If the problem persists, restore the file from a backup copy.
5. Determine whether other files on the same disk can be opened. If not, the disk might be damaged. If it is a hard disk, contact your administrator or computer hardware vendor for further assistance.

Additional Data
Error value: 00000000
Disk type: 0
------------------------------------------

Faulting application name: Win96.exe, version: 0.1.7.4, time stamp: 0x4eef5003
Faulting module name: unknown, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Exception code: 0xc0000096
Fault offset: 0x00bd340e
Faulting process id: 0x2630
Faulting application start time: 0x01d1d98942198782
Faulting application path: C:\Program Files (x86)\Win96\Win96.exe
Faulting module path: unknown
Report Id: 7fe17232-457c-11e6-b628-00224d88aa25
------------------------------------------
Fault bucket 173410711, type 17
Event Name: APPCRASH
Response: Not available
Cab Id: 0

Problem signature:
P1: Win500.exe
P2: 0.2.0.7
P3: 533b3d88
P4: StackHash_8066
P5: 0.0.0.0
P6: 00000000
P7: c0000096
P8: 0076340e
P9:
P10:

Attached files:
C:\Users\xxxx\AppData\Local\Temp\WER72A7.tmp.WERInternalMetadata.xml

These files may be available here:
C:\Users\xxxxx\AppData\Local\Microsoft\Windows\WER\ReportArchive\AppCrash_Win500.exe_9cafbefff092ed2c6d7981ef5fbc5ec017761a_5b3286c3

Analysis symbol:
Rechecking for solution: 0
Report Id: 9800ad92-457c-11e6-b628-00224d88aa25
Report Status: 0
------------------------------------------
Windows cannot access the file  for one of the following reasons: there is a problem with the network connection, the disk that the file is stored on, or the storage drivers installed on this computer; or the disk is missing. Windows closed the program Win500 Scanner Utility because of this error.

Program: Win500 Scanner Utility
File:

The error value is listed in the Additional Data section.
User Action
1. Open the file again. This situation might be a temporary problem that corrects itself when the program runs again.
2. If the file still cannot be accessed and
    - It is on the network, your network administrator should verify that there is not a problem with the network and that the server can be contacted.
    - It is on a removable disk, for example, a floppy disk or CD-ROM, verify that the disk is fully inserted into the computer.
3. Check and repair the file system by running CHKDSK. To run CHKDSK, click Start, click Run, type CMD, and then click OK. At the command prompt, type CHKDSK /F, and then press ENTER.
4. If the problem persists, restore the file from a backup copy.
5. Determine whether other files on the same disk can be opened. If not, the disk might be damaged. If it is a hard disk, contact your administrator or computer hardware vendor for further assistance.

Additional Data
Error value: 00000000
-------------------------------------------
Faulting application name: Win500.exe, version: 0.2.0.7, time stamp: 0x533b3d88
Faulting module name: unknown, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Exception code: 0xc0000096
Fault offset: 0x0076340e
Faulting process id: 0x28f8
Faulting application start time: 0x01d1d9895a37ff92
Faulting application path: C:\Program Files (x86)\Win500\Win500.exe
Faulting module path: unknown

Interesting little crystal tester I got from ebay

I saw a video by Joernone where he shows a crystal tester he built. I thought that would be pretty cool to have but I did not have some of the components to build one. While looking to order them I found a completed board that does all the same things plus a go/no go light for a pretty reasonable price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electro-Resales-Crystal-Tester-and-RF-Generator-XTRF-/152053865120?

I bought the board, made some minor modifications to it, and mounted it in a project box.
Here are the results:

I went through all the crystals I had, I only found one dead one, a couple that oscillated strangely, and almost all of the crystals were spot on (or very close to) their rated frequencies.

ViewSonic VA2431 LCD Monitor problems

I received this monitor from my work several years ago and it was working perfectly up until a couple of weeks ago.

My monitors are calibrated, and when I do certain things like:
login through remote desktop and then login from the console or
play minecraft and exit the monitor loses it's settings and I run a special program to restore the settings.

Lately my monitor had a pink cast to it that would not go away when I ran the program to restore the calibration. I thought maybe it had lost it's calibration so I did a fresh calibration and that seemed to fix it... for about  20 minutes, then it went pink again. I did another calibration and it seemed to work but after 5 minutes it started flashing between pink and calibrated.

sigh™

I opened it up and it did not appear to have bad electrolytic capacitors but I replaced them anyways. I tested the old caps and all of them were leaky including the large 450v filter cap.

Now it works fine.

I want Candy

Yesterday we had Candy put down.

Candy was my sister Pam's cat. Pam had got her some time around 2000 and about 2 years after Pam died we got Candy. Candy did not like other cats and her meow was broken. She could only meow when she tried really hard.

About a year ago she started losing weight and would not eat dry cat food, so we started her on the geriatric cat diet of canned cat food. She mostly only drank out of the toilet which we called "the fountain of youth" A couple of times she fell in. She would often throw up her food and even throw up water.

About 2 days ago she stopped eating and she started peeing in random places. She had been pooping in random places for a while. Friday Kathi made an appointment to have here put down. Saturday morning Candy tried to use the litter box but nothing came out. She was very listless and could not hardly hold her head up. She would not eat, for most of the morning she could barely stand.

At 9:30am we took he in and the doctor examined her. He found one of her kidneys was enlarged. She weighed 5.5 pounds. We had them put her down, but they had trouble finding a vein. They had to shave her front leg to find one. They barely injected her and she was gone. We think Candy was about 15 to 17 years old. We did not take her home as we already have 3 cats buried in the back yard. They will mass cremate her. We did not want her ashes or a casting of her paw. I think both would be weird.

HP 54600A squished display problem, button problems and fix

I bought a Hewlett Packard 54600A oscilloscope a year or so ago.

Mine has screen burn in but was quite usable. It also had a problem with some of the buttons not working and the control pots being touchy.

This morning I turned it on after not using it for a few months (because of the issues it had).

I noted the display was squashed and the top of the image rolled.

I figured it was time to work on it.

I found that the buttons were filthy with a huge build up of black stuff under the 2 I needed the most.

I cleaned the switches and all the pots.

I researched the video image problem and found a forum where different people reported that either electrolytic caps C608 or C609 were the problem.

In my case since I had it opened I replaced both.

I also adjusted the B+ voltage to 14vdc as it was off by almost half a volt.

Problems solved.

 you might want to check for a rubber square on the inside of the case that has melted or turned to goo, mine had it and it was a sticky mess.

AJ6 Zephyr 7701 AM/FM refurbish

I have been trying to get one of these for a while now but whenever they show up on ebay they tend to sell for more than I want to pay.
I got this one off of shopgoodwill for a reasonable price and it was quite grungy but worked with no hum.

The picture above has the contrast out of whack as it was not as dirty as it looks.

It had all its original tubes inside, all marked SEC Hitachi.

Some information I have says that it is made by Sansei, but radiomuseum says it is made by Zephyr in one listing and Sansei in another.


Under the chassis there is not much that needs to be replaced. The square metallic box under the large green capacitor near the volume pot is the rectifier in an unusual mount.

I only found one Electrolytic in the detector circuit and 3 60uf electrolytics in the filter cap.
All of these Japanese AM/FM radios I have worked on have similar circuits and the same filter caps.

I have found that you can replace the 60uf's with 47 or 50uf's with no hum.

I removed the chassis, and the speaker to give it a good bath with simple green.

Re-assembled it.

Polished the plastic and I am listening to it as I type this.

The dial is spot on, it tunes just fine and everything sound great I really like these 1960's Japanese radios they hold their alignment for decades. Many of them sound really good, and the build quality is rather high with zinc plated or gold anodized chassis, in many cases tube retainers, and many of the come with a fuse already installed. I especially like the look of them, they just look totally different than most of the radios that were out at the time, or even later. I like the reverse painted dials especially.

The things I don't like about them are that the plastic often shrinks and or cracks around the screw holes, they suffer from SMD, and the dial covers or face plates are melted in place.

DOH!

I was working on my 1989 Chevrolet C2500 truck. The temperature gauge was not working and so I figured the temperature sensor needed to be replaced, Since the gauge worked when the gauges all ran through their test when you start the truck. I also notice a small leak where the thermostat is. Today I replaced the thermostat (even though it was fine), replaced the sensor and tested the truck. WTF it still does not work. I also notice I still had a tiny leak and re-tightened the bolts on the thermostat, that's when I noticed a wire that had a connector dangling near something that look kind of like the sending unit I replaced but with a different connector.

OH COME ON REALLY!

There was a second temperature sending unit down by the exhaust, the connector is just clipped on, and had come off. I reconnected it, zip tied it in place, and.... now the temperature gauge works! DOH!

Remote Control USB SD FM MP3 Audio Player Module DIY

More El Cheapo FM mp3 players

Here are 2 more AM radios I converted to FM/mp3 players.

Motorola

Magnavox

 

 

El Cheapo AA5 mp3/FM mod

I had purchased several of these FM radio mp3 players:

They run off of 12vdc, and have inputs for SD memory, USB sticks, and possibly even a hard drive. There is also a line in, FM stereo receiver, and stereo out to drive an amp or headphones. Some units have blue tooth capabilities.

I have wanted to add them to a nothing special AA5 radio for a while, but most AA5's don't have a front panel with enough space for one.

Recently I was inventory my small hoard of radios some of which I got when I first started in this hobby, and was buying whatever I could find just to get experience with fixing them. I picked up 3 radios off of ebay for real cheap and saved even more money with local pickup.

The Zenith (with the stain) on the left I parted out for reasons I do not remember, The Motorola is very plain Jane and reminds me of a block of white chocolate, and then there is the Westinghouse.

The "Chassis" (V-2466-x) is used in 17 models, there is a ton of room inside. This one had an option for a clock radio covered by faux wood grain.

My plan is to cut out a hole to mount the player in the middle of the faux wood grain, connect the output of the player in to the audio amp of the radio through a switch, and supply an input for the line in, and possibly an output for headphone. I will also mount a small wall wart inside the radio to power the player and be switched on by the radio. I will use it for a while and then try and sell it.


I Started working on it by removing the chassis and speakers so I could give the plastic a good cleaning.

Inside the case after cleaning.

I had something serendipitous happen when I removed the chassis I found out that the front plate was only partially glued in so I removed it.

 The front plate after some cleaning.

With the front plate off I will be able to cut holes in it a whole lot easier.

I drew up a template in autocad and printed it one to one.

Another serendipitous thing is that the dial pointer/needle had a protective covering that someone may have forgot to remove when it was built. removing it greatly brightened the dial pointer.



I cut the hole out of the face plate with a nibbler and then cutout the plastic with nippers and the nibbler.

here is the player temporarily mounted:

 I rewired the player since I could not find any connectors like the ones it originally came with:

I did some searching and found that the unit will work with anything from 5 to 12 volts. There is a 5 volt regulator right after the +12vdc connection.

I am going to use a 9vdc 700ma wall wart since the unit will need 500ma to power usb devices.

I cut the trace on the board between the 3.3 meg resistor and the pot, I installed a switch between it

Instead of installing a transformer internally, I installed a power socket for a 9vdc wall wart

Here is the back.

 I installed the 3.5mm input jack on the front as the plastic was too thick to do it on the back or side.

It sounds just fine and reception is excellent.

here is more info to help people out:

 

If you want to try this look for the following:
Power switch
voltage regulator (yellow line points to it in pic below)
comes with the wires and connectors.

I have ordered some of these (of different types in the past). Some come with a voltage regulator some do not. I found out the hard way by blowing one up (with no VR) when I accidentally put in too much voltage.

The LM7805 can output 5volts +/- .25vdc 1amp if I am reading the spec sheet correctly it can actually handle up to 35vdc input.

Some of the listings claim it can be used to charge a phone, but one review on a website claims that it will fry your phone, it did not occur to me to use this as a phone charger. I am not sure what the port in the picture above marked "in" and "Charging port" is for since that type of connector is usually used to connect a device to a computer. I am hesitant to plug something in to it.

The unit will scan and store all stations it can pickup to saved presets, it has very high gain for such a little radio. There is an EQ function which seems to only be for mp3's and not the radio. It has a clock but I cannot figure out how to set it. I have not found a manual for it so far. It has a small amp built in that puts out about 1 volt max so a preamp is needed for some applications, the 12av6 worked fine for that. There is a built in volume control as well. Thankfully the boards are marked or else it would be very difficult to hook these up properly.

Sound output in this radio is ok considering the type of speakers, when I tested it with a 200mw amp and nice 8ohm speakers it sound just as good as any small stereo you could have.

The remotes for these are all the same except that the buttons may be marked different, I have 2 different units and the remotes work on either one, but on one the EQ button is scan up, pressing it does a scan up on this unit. other buttons labeled differently operate the unit the same as my other one with different markings.

The radio is a Westinghouse cr-510. Good luck finding one.

other models:
cr-500
cr-501
cr-515
cr-520
cr-521
cr-530
cr-531
cr-535
cr-536
h-200t5
h-201t5
h-205L5
h-210L5
h-211L5
h-215L5
h-216L5